Now For Something Really Different

by Graham Keavney on the Wine With Graham blog on February 17, 2009

Chinese Rice WineI met Scott of Chinese Rice Wine (www.chinesericewine.com) at the NW food & wine show in November.  He was demoing his Rice Wine, and I thought it was very unique at the time.  I recently caught up with him, and got 2 of his varietals to try out:  An 8 year and a 10 year Rice Wine.  Now, being a wine guy, I am much more able to note subtle differences in the varietals, and even years.  But the Rice Wine was such a different experience that I won’t yet try to show a difference in the two…that will come in a later review.  This is a review of one of the most unique and unusual beverages I’ve tried in a long time!

According to Scott, many people try to compare Chinese Rice Wine to Sake.  This is before they try it.  I tried the Rice Wine over 2 weeks ago for the 1st time and have been waiting just to make sure I have the best way to describe it in mind.  I’m not sure if I do, and am sure I will have additional reviews to further hone my opinion.

The first thing that I notice about the Chinese Rice Wine is the earthiness.  Not the same type of leathery earthiness that I love so much in red wine, but more of an organic, “dirty” smell…mushrooms, soil (this is NOT a bad thing), and wood.  There is also something salty/sweet to the nose, like the smell of the sea and soy sauce.  This soy sauce and Worcestershire come out in the taste as well.  There is a subtle saltiness, but the overriding taste is completely unique.  I’m yet to find the right descriptor(s) for it…one thing that keeps coming to my head is: If the color Amber had a taste, this is what it would be.  The color is a rich caramel color, and there are hints of caramel in the taste, but the subtle sweetness only comes out once it is heated up.  Heat it like Sake…15 seconds in the microwave will even do the trick if you don’t have a sake warmer.

Admittedly the taste is very polarizing…it is extremely distinct and potent.  But is is very unique, and I can see an acquired appreciation.  My friend Steve and I dug into the fridge and pantry to pair it with food.  We tried blue cheese (not the right contrast of flavor), pepperoni (too sharp), tortilla chips (for the salt…not bad), and cherries (the best combo we tried).  2 nights later I drank it with Thai food, and it worked pretty well!  I can see that it would be good with mushrooms/broccoli/beef and an oyster or Worcestershire sauce.  Then, I tried a couple cocktails.  I muddled some mint and a teaspoon of sugar…not bad, but the mint got completely overpowered after the first 1/2 second on my palette.  So I muddles it with mint and fresh pineapple.  Getting closer!  I want to heat it up with an orange and a splash of Brandy…maybe throw in some honey, for a toddy.  Maybe tonight!

The Chinese Rice Wine is a completely new category.  It’s not wine, or sake.  It’s got a high ABV (15-18%), but it’s not a spirit, though it can be used in cocktails (go HERE for recipes.  There is also a cocktail competition!).  Like any food or drink you try for the 1st time, it will be a new sensation, but with a bit of an open mind, I think you’ll really be able to enjoy this!  I’m looking forward to trying more of the wines, and playing around with them.  By the way…the bottles alone are worth the LOW cost of the product!  They are absolutely stunning!